2021 Demo Derby Rules – Saturday, Oct 30th

2021 Demo Derby Rules
Tri City Speedway
Saturday, Oct 30th

Rule Questions call Nick Rimbey 217-370-1797
Race Track Tammy Gundaker 636-448-9111

 

Mini Hobo
Do not paint or weld on suspension or frame. You will NOT be inspected
1- May be any 80’s & newer front-wheel drive car (wheel base up to ½”) with 4 or 6
cylinder engine.
2- Remove all glass mirrors, plastic, outside body chrome, turn signals, must be swept
clean of all debris. Also, must remove all carpet, dash, headliner, rear seats, and any
other flammable materials.
3- Zero-crease enhancement, zero sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding.
4- Hood and trunk must be 100% in stock location. Hood must have a minimum of 12”
opening, in case of fire.
5- Hoods may fasten with (6) 5/8 allthread 2 through core support. Trunk 6 place with
#9 wire only—2 strands per hole. Driver door may be welded with 12” of 3” x 1/8
strap per vertical seam. Remaining door 6” per vertical seam.
6- Body bolts and spacers to remain stock. Do not touch them, besides (2) in core
support for allthread.
7- Original gas tank has to be removed from under the car. After market metal or
aluminum fuel cell behind seat and 8” from floor.
8- 4 point cage around driver area, for safety not to strengthen car. No bigger than 6”
material. Max length is 60” with 4 down tubes 2×3 to sheet metal only. No further
forward than inside door seam. You may have gas tank protector. Must stay at least
3” in front of packing tray (back seat area).
9- Must use factory pedals and brakes.
You are allowed after-market shifter and steering column but may not strengthen car
in any way.
10- HALO is mandatory and can be connected to back bar or sheet metal. Can NOT be
any further back than 6” of back of seat.
11- Any OEM car bumper may be revised. It can be loaded inside only, use metal
materials.

 

Hobo Full-size
General Rules and Regulations
1. All rules will be followed or you will not run. Judges decision is final.
2. Any American made care of at least 113” or more wheel base. NO 4×4, ambulance,
hearse, truck, or limo. No sedagons, No 1970 or older Lincolns, No 1973 or older
Imperials or sub frames. No 03 and newer.
3. All drivers must sign paperwork.
4. Drivers must wear long pants, enclosed shoes and long sleeve shirt and helmet with eye
protection.
5. All drivers must attend drivers meeting.
6. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension, frame, or interior. If done, car will not be
inspected.
Show Rules
1. You will have 1 minute to make contact. After 1 minute, that car is disqualified.
2. NO Drivers door hits.
3. You are given 2 fires. 1st fire will be put out. 2nd fire will result in disqualification.
4. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
5. No holding or pinning. You must back up and show day light. No pinning to win.
Car Preparation
1. No fresh paint or undercoating on the frame—at all. No buffing or grinding frames or
bodies, except where welding is specifically allowed in rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is states in rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed before arriving at the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floor board, properly secured and covered.
6. Must have number in bright color on front doors or roof sign at least 15” x 15” and not to
be used to strengthen car in anyway.
7. Must have working brakes.
8. No welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any
welds other than allowed and you refuse to fix to judges satisfaction, you will not run.

Body
1. Remove all glass, mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons. Vehicles must
be swept clean of all debris.
2. No sedagons, ZERO body creasing, Zero sheet metal or frame shaping, forming, or
folding.
3. Trunk deck and hood must be 100% in stock location. Trunk may have a single 90
degree bend. Hood must open for inspection.
4. Anything can be removed, nothing added.
5. Hood may be fastened in (6) spots with bolts no bigger than 5/8 with 4×4 ¼” washer.
6. Trunk decks fastened in (6) spots—wire only 2 strands of #9
7. You may weld driver door 12” vertical seam only. All other 6 inch with 3 inch by 1/8
inch strap.
8. Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If broken or rusted out a piece
of #9 may be used.
9. No bolt changing allowed. Do not touch them. You may replace two front core
support mounts with 5/8 allthread. You may use piece of 2×2 no taller than 3 inches
for spacer. Do NOT weld spacer to frame or core support.
10. Must have #9 wire, chain, or 3 inch by ¼ strap in windshield area. If strap is used,
only 3 inches to connect on roof and fire wall.

Frames
1. No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain strictly stock. Zero
aftermarket parts.
2. You may weld A-arm down with 2×3 1/8” strap one in front and one on back side
of A-arm.
3. You may use single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear-end leaf spring cars
may use 4 single strands #9 wire as spring clamp.
4. You can have 2 6×6 1/8” plates on a fresh car and 6 6×6 1/8” plates on a pre ran
car. Do not bend them in half to make ½ or you will remove the whole plate.
5. NO FRAME SHAPING
6. You may run #9 wire from cage to frame at your discretion.

Drivetrain
1. Any drivetrain allowed with following criteria:
2. Only the factory lower stock engine mount may be welded to cradle. You may use (2) ½”
thick spacers to raise engine to clear steering components may not exceed rubber mount
area.
3. Lower cradle only. No pulley protector, no skid plates, no dist. Protector.
4. No tranny protector, stock mounting only, stock cross member.
5. Rear-end may be swapped, no bracing, 5 lug stock axles, no bigger than 31 spline.
6. May run 1 piece of chain 3/8 around frame to rear-end or 2 strand of #9 wire—nothing
through body. One or the other, cannot do both.
7. Aftermarket shifter, gas and brake pedals, steering columns and headers are allowed.
Nothing to strengthen car.
8. Slide drive shaft is allowed.
9. Pinion brake is allowed.
10. No watts conversion. 98 to newer has to use factory control arms.

Drivers Compartment
1. 4-point square cage 6” max size. (4) 2×3 down tubes to sheet metal only. (2) per side–No
further forward than door seam. 60” max side bars, front bar 6” from firewall.
2. Halo to side bar or to sheet metal vertical, no farther back than 6” from head rest.
3. Gas tank protector is allowed at least 4” above sheet metal and 3” from back seat area
packing tray 24” wide in center of car.
4. Tranny cooler allowed, mounted to cage area.

Bumpers
1. You may reinforce front bumper, only on inside with metal only!!! Has to be a factor
OEM bumper.
2. You may weld factor bumper to bracket 4” only on frame from bumper. Single pass only.
If you choose to leave bumper stock it can be welded to frame with (4) 1’ welds, single
pass. You may shorten frame to 1” in front of core support hole and hard nose with no
shocks or brackets.
If it is not on these rules don’t do it or you will not run.

 

Street Stock Weld

General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. ALL RULES MUST BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN
2. Drivers must wear seat belt, helmet, fire suit jacket and long pants while participating.
3. ALL drivers must attend the drivers meeting.
4. During event you are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit or will be disqualified.
5. You MUST run a roof sign.
6. Drivers are not allowed to drink alcohol before they participate. If found with alcohol in
system you will not run, no exceptions. ZERO TOLERANCE RULE.

Car Preparation:
NO PAINTING OR UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO BUFFING OR GRIDING
FRAMES OR BODIES EXCEPT WHERE WELDING IS SPECIFICIALLY ALLOWED IN
THESE RULES. NO PAINTING IN THE INSIDE OF THE BODY OR CAR. IF THIS IS
DONE THE CAR WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
1. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions: NO 1970 or older Lincolns
and NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4×4, ambulance, hearses,
trucks, limousines, frames or full cars etc…
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is specifically stated in these rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard and properly secured/covered.
6. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the hoist. If the car is not able to exhibit
the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any
weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your
car will not run.

Repair Plate Rules:
Fresh Cars: (4) 6x6x1/8” Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They
cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all.
Pre Ran: (8) 6x6x1/8” Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They
cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all **𝘊𝘶𝘵𝘵𝘪𝘯𝘨 & 𝘮𝘰𝘷𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘱𝘭𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘴
𝘥𝘶𝘳𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘴𝘦𝘢𝘴𝘰𝘯 𝘪𝘴 𝘯𝘰𝘵 𝘢𝘭𝘭𝘰𝘸𝘦𝘥!!**

2 Frame Bumper:
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper may be used on any car, but no more than
one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets may be from any car that is legal to
run in your class and on only one side of the frame. Bumper brackets must be one of the two
following methods.
First way – factory bumper bracket that is legal to a car in your class may not extend any further
back than the first 14” of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass
only).
You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock
brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or
less, and it must be done vertically. All brackets must touch the bumper and cannot be cut apart
to lengthen.

OR
Second way – INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8”
thick plate extending from your bumper down either a side, or the top, or bottom of the frame
choose only one cannot wrap a corner with it and cannot be any longer 14”. You are also allowed
to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you
enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only
4” wide max. Do not bend plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Plate may be
welded on either side of the frame or the top or bottom, your choice. Do not abuse this rule YOU
WILL CUT.
You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold
them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we
do not want them coming off. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to
the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or
frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame
rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails 3 Front
and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet
metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed
in front of the radiator. The bumper may be built up to have a 14” point from the farthest point
from the back side of the bumper to the point over a 36” span and 8” tall. Rear Bumper Brackets
must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 14” on the frame. Wagons do not weld the
bumpers to the body.

Frame Shortening:
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the
frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the
remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or
relocate it you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches from the back of the
bumper to the front of the spring pocket.

Frame Welding
No rewelding of any factory seams is allowed. No Tilting Cold Bending is allowed; you may
cold bend in the rails under the doors, however your cross members or down bars cannot support
the bend.
Rust Repair – Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
Frame Shaping – NO frame shaping is allowed.

Front Suspension:

Tie Rods and Ball Joints – Aftermarket tie rods allowed (no “Big Chiefs”) with stock size ball
joints. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Only stock size
car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends.

A-Arms – A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be
reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick strap per a arm. This strap must
weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part
of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory
car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.

Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the
class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car
that is legal in the class you are running.

Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake
calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles

Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no
modifications.

Rear Suspension:
Leaf springs must be from a stock car allowed in this class, no added leafs. No rearranging the
stacks. You may add 2 homemade clamps per side 2x4x1/4” thick. No shorting of the leaf pack.
You must have a working shackle. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them
from becoming unbolted.
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied
together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil
springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed
above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling
out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount.
You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in
1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to
allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear
end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead
of wrapping it around the frame.

WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS
• They must bolt to package tray with 4 – ½” diam. Bolts No welding of the upper brackets to
package tray.
• The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail.
• The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to
package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the
same way as a 97 and older ford.
• Lower frame brackets may be ¼” X 3” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to
top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located.
• All unused brackets must be removed from frame.
• No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
• Trailing arms both upper and lower must be a factory non loaded trailing arm. Must use a
factory trailing arm for a car approved for this class. May shorten or lengthen with 2-inch
overlap, NO added metal.

Rear- Ends:
-Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8 lug rear end.
– You can tilt rear end if you wish.
-Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
– Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 ½” on the outer 10” of a stock
size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing.
– No changing out rear package trays on frame. – You must use the factory brackets that came
with the car you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
-Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced.
They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid
Setups.

Tires:
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok.
Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as
long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead.
No bead locks in this class.

Motor:
-Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
-Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. -Mid Plates are NOT allowed.
-Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber
bushing, attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
-NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley
protector if the sway bar is removed.
-Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot
connect to anything.

Transmission Brace and Skid Plate:
-You may run an aftermarket bell housing but no other modifications may be to transmission.
You are allowed 1 loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with one link welded per side or bolt it
down with 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft cone.
No transmission protectors or aftermarket tail shaft cones.

Transmission Cross Member:
-You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission. This can be out of another car.
OR
– You may use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock
location.

NO HOMEMADE TRANNY CROSS MEMBERS!!
-Tranny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)-
2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross member on.
-The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The
transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in.

Body

Body Shaping:
Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger
compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.

Rust Repair:
You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust out; weld 2”
beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust hole.
DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT.
If you have to restub your frame do so under the front doors but do not support the splice with
cross member. NO 03’ and newer rear frames attached to an 02’ an older front frame.

#9 Wire:
-You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops)
-You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire
or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame
hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do
not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the
trunk floor if you choose.

Radiators:
For mounting radiators you may use (4)- ½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the
core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6”
1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. NO radiator
guards allowed

Body Mounts:

Body mount bolts can be replaced with 3/4” bolts and can only be 8-inches long, body mounts
can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock
spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 4x4x ¼” washer on top, washers must
be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame with up to a
2x3x ¼” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not
have to be up inside frame, the 6 plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger
than 3”. if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside
the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not
devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and
move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support
spacers you may no weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed
2” square material. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass
through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in
this location. Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.

Hood & Front Clip:

-Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be
bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 6
bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not
exceed the 6 bolts. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4
tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must
go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the
body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down
spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in
length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood
tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
-Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the
fenders the same way that it came factory.
-You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8”
bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap
or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25”
washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.

Windshield Bar & Firewall:

Firewall- DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!!
Window Bar- For safety, all calls must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the
car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you
remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The
removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The
horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No
more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material
allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars
cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the
firewall.
Doors
-You may weld your doors solid with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the
door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold tops of doors over
and weld the outer skin and inner skin together, but you are not allowed to add any material. If
you chose not to weld, they must be tied shut in six locations using ½” bolts no longer than 6”,
3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening
points.
-You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not
stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also
allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.

Cage
All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for specific rule smaller. It must
be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage
material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be
minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind
the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may
also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace you dash. You may
run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two
down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet.
These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top
side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the
seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You
may also weld a steering column to the cage. Side bars including roll over may be a max length
of 62 inches long. Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5″ plate on both sides (frame and
body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from
the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2×3” square tubing. All
Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the
kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may
need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first.

Gas Tank Protector
– You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be
centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from your roll
over protection. It must be a full 3” away from rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed. The
bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the
highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area.

Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it
must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured
and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the
center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all.
Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may
extend through the frame to create a body mount.

Trunks
-You may weld your trunk lid shut in 6 spots using up to 3” 5”x1/8” strap on the factory seam

-You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk
must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.

-(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, If it passes through a
body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.

-GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be
followed.

03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinon, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.
4. Struts, spindles, and a arms may be switched to a direct bolt on. No cutting, welding, and
fabbing to make it work.
5. Engine mounting, you may use a cradle like grey area or budde cradle or you can grab your
own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt
through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain ½ inch off the side
rail. Repair plates may not be used to tie cradle into the rails.
6. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above.
If it is not on these rules don’t do it or you will not run.

Weld Compacts
General Rules & Regulations:

1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. JUDGES
DECISIONS ARE FINAL.
2. All drivers must sign driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run the event.
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet & fire suit jacket.
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before each event. Driver’s meeting are always approx.
30 minutes before the event show time.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before their event. If found drinking alcohol or
under the influence while wearing a driver’s band you will be disqualified for the remainder of
the event.

Show Rules:
1. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That is
1minute total. An aggressive hit is solely at the discretion of the officials.
2. For safety, DO NOT HIT THE DRIVERS DOOR!
3. You are given 2 fires- 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
4. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
5. Watch the officials. If they are trying to get your attention, there is a reason.
6. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show day light. You may not pin to win.

Vehicle Preparation
1. Remove all glass, mirrors, door handles, plastic, trailer hitches/mounts, and make sure the
vehicle is swept clean of all debris.
2. 108” max factory wheelbase on all vehicles in this class. Leave vin tag to verify
make/model/year. 4 and 6 cylinder engines only. NO SUVs or Trucks.
3. Batteries must be moved into the passenger compartment and properly secured and covered.
4. You must have a number in bright colors in each front door and must have a sign on the roof
with a number on it. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
5. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit
the ability to stop, then it will not be inspected.
6. Factory Fuel tank, oil coolers, transmission coolers must be removed
7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any
weld, other than what is allowed and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your
car will not run.

Inside of Car
• All cage material must be no larger than 8” OD, unless specified for a specific rule.
• Dash bar, back seat bar, and door bars must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere.
• No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine and protector.
Must be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which may not be altered. You may weld a
bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can be an X. Do not connect directly to the
frame, and you may also have (with no extensions), across your dash area to replaces your dash.
You may run 60” max door bars connecting the dash bar and the seat bar.
• You may weld two down bars per side from the cage to the frame vertically. Do not angle these
or conceal a body mount with them. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam
and may only be welded to the top side of the frame or floor. These bars cannot exceed 2”x3”.
You must have roll loop behind the seat (8” diameter max), which must be welded to the floor or
frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof.
• Back seat bar and halo bar must be placed a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear
seat body mount. On cars where this isn’t present, must be a max of 10” from driver’s seat.
• You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than to your cage. Cannot
exceed 24” wide and must be centered in the vehicle. It can angle in from your halo bar, it must
be 4” off floor sheet metal and 1” from rear sheet metal. Must stay on interior of car.
• A well-made metal fuel cell (no plastic tanks) is required, and it must be mounted to your gas
tank protector only.
• Fuel line must be ran inside the car and secured properly.
• Engine oil coolers and transmission coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to
reinforce the car. Cooler mounting may be to sheet metal or cage mount only (not both).
• Floor mounted pedals are permitted. They must be 2” from anybody mount or cage
components.
• Batteries may be mounted to the cage or to the floorboard (not both). The battery box may not
strengthen the vehicle in any way. Must be a minimum 2” from, frame, body mounts, and
protectors.
• Cable shifters are permitted but may not be mounted in any way to strengthen the vehicle.

Bumpers and Bumper Mounting
Option #1: Any Seam welded OEM bumper may be ran as long as it has an unmodified skin
front and back. It may be loaded, but all added material must remain inside the bumper.
Option #2: Homemade bumpers may be used as long as it falls under all of the following
dimensions.
6”X6” max dimensions plus the optional 4” point spread out over a minimum of 32”. No sharp
or protruding objects.
• You may trim bumper ends or fold them around.
• No welding bumper to the body or cross member in any fashion.
• Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and be a minimum
14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
• Bumpers must be mounted in stock location.
• Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from core support/trunk lid to bumper (not
frame). These cannot be placed in-front of the radiator.
• No more than one set of OEM car bumper shocks/brackets may be used per bumper. Rear
bumper brackets must be OEM for the vehicle you are running.
• You can weld bumper brackets/towers to the bumper and to the frame.
• No brackets are allowed any further back than the first 16” of the frame.
• Instead of using bumper brackets, you are allowed to use 1-4” wide x 3⁄8” thick strap extending
from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extended further back than the first
16” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 3” to
create an “L” shape, this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate
may be formed to fit the frame but it may not be doubled up at any point. 4” width includes
forming.

Frame
• No frame swaps. Frame must be factory for your car.
• Unibody vehicles may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the core support / body
mount hole. If it is a weld on mount, leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If
you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run.
• No shortening the rear rails or center of the vehicle.
• You are only allowed to weld the factory frame seams from the front side of the firewall
forward with a single 1⁄2” bead. On a unibody car you can weld the cross member
(Kmember/sub frame) seams and the main unibody seam but do not weld the two together. No
welding of inner fenders, strut towers or anything else. You may not beat the lip over and weld it
(example fox body mustang)
• Coil sprung cars will be allowed 20” hump plates. 1⁄4” thick 3” wide contoured to the frame.
They must be centered in the rear axle no cheating to one side or another. Must have 2 half inch
inspection holes drilled in them.
• Rust repair- Call before fixing any rust on the frame. The rust can be cut out a piece cut exactly
to the hole size maybe butt welded in (same thickness).
• No frame shaping is allowed.
• No tilting or altering of the frame in any way.
• Do not shape your humps.
• You may run 4 loops of #9 wire or 1 loop of 3⁄8” chain from frame rail to frame rail underneath
the back of the vehicle, behind rear end. This may go around the frame, or it may go through a
factory hole in frame, or you can weld 1-3⁄8” chain link to the inside rail of the frame to run the
wire through. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.

Suspension and Steering
• Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame.
• Aftermarket stock replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed. Tie rod tubes may be
reinforced.

• A-arms-
▪ May be seam welded.
▪ Must be bolted on in a factory manner.
▪ May be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced.
▪ If bolted, you may use 1 3⁄4” bolt per a-arm if choosing to bolt.
▪ If welded, you may use 2-2x4x1/4” straps per a-arm. This strap must be welded to the aarm and cannot be farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-arm.

• Struts must be factory for the vehicle you are running. Must mount with factory mounting
brackets and be stock appearing. You may reinforce the inside of the strut, and are allowed 1-
2x4x1/8” strap to weld on each strut.
• Steering box, pitman arm, and idler arm are interchangeable with vehicles that are legal for this
class. Must bolt on in factory manner.
• Spindles and hubs must be stock for a vehicle that is legal in this class. You may weld 1- 6”x
3⁄4” rod to the back side of the spindle.
• Sway bar must be mounted in stock location and stock manner. No welding of sway bar or
mounts
• No leaf spring conversions.
Leaf springs must be made of stock spring material with a 1” stagger, front and back. No
springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can have a total of 7 leaf springs per side, no thicker
than 5/16” thick and 2 3⁄4” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and
lead spring must go down from longest to shortest. You can re-clamp springs, 4 clamps per side.
Homemade clamps cannot exceed 2x4x1/4”, while using up to 1⁄2” bolts. Must have a 2” arch in
your springs. Must mount leafs to the factory mounting brackets. Brackets may be welded on, do
not relocate them.
Coil springs can be changed to a stiffer spring or put spacer in sagging coil springs. You can
wire, or chain springs to rear end to prevent springs from falling out.
• Rear shocks may be replaced with 1” max all-thread.
• You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3⁄8” chain or 4 loops #9 wire) from rear end to frame in
one spot on each side. Must go around frame, do not bolt chain to the frame. We are going to
allow you to weld 1 link of chain per side of frame, if you choose to weld the chain instead of
wrapping it around the frame.
• You may use rear end of choice but must be no more than 8 lugs. Welded or posi-trac highly
recommended. Braces are welcome, may not extend more than 3” past the housing. Brace must
not reinforce your frame. Rear end control arms can be reinforced but must start from a stock set.
The factory bracket must attach in stock location for the vehicle you are running.
• Slider drive shafts and CV shafts are permitted.

Wheels and Tires
• No rims larger than 16”, no split rims, no studded tires.
• Valve stem protectors, full centers, bead protectors, and bead locks (on the inside of the wheel
only) are allowed.
• No foam filled on the “drive tires”. Motor, Transmission and Engine Cross Member
• You may use a 4 or 6 cylinder engine of your choice, must be mounted in stock location in a
stock manner.
• Motor mounts can be replaced but must remain factory style. Reinforcing of the mounts is
permitted but must still have a bolt as a pivot point. Mounts may be welded solid with 1-
4”x6”x1⁄4” thick plate per side. Mounts (other than upper FWD) must go to engine cross
member, not to the frame. Top side FWD mounts may be welded on one side but must pivot on
the other (do not weld the mounts together).
• Full engine cradles are allowed, but must be 6” from any cage components and 6” from the
core support.
• All engine cradle components must be 3” away from the frame rails on RWD vehicles, a
minimum of 1” from the frame rails on FWD cars, and may not strengthen the frame in any way.
Pulley protectors are allowed, but may not extend your water pump. Only 12 inches may
contact the firewall.
• Transmission brace, aftermarket bell housing, aftermarket tail shafts, and skid plates are
allowed.
• Transmission braces must be contoured to the transmission. On FWD cars, must be a minimum
1” from frame. Transmissions and braces must be a minimum of 4” from any cage components.
• The factory transmission cross member must be in the stock location for the vehicle you are
running. You may replace the transmission cross member on RWD cars with one straight piece
of 2”x2”x1/4” max tube. Tube can be welded with a single piece of angle iron (8” long 2”x2”,
¼” thick max) to each side of the frame. You must remove the stock mount if you run the angle
iron. The transmission cross member is the only way the transmission may be tied to the frame.
Transmission may be bolted (may not be welded in any way) to the cross member with 2-5⁄8”
bolts with 1.5” washers or you may wrap a chain around the transmission to the cross member.

Trunk, Tailgates, Hood, Doors, and Body
• Body shaping is allowed to the exterior of the vehicle only. All panels must remain in factory
position. Rear quarter panels and taillight valance must remain vertical.
• You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2”
beyond rust max.
• You are allowed 2 strands up to 4 loops of #9 wire per window opening. May go around frame
and through the roof sheet metal only. Do not use your cage in any way to support this.
• You may use up to 4-1⁄2” all thread to mount your radiator. This may pass through the bottom
of the core support. You may use 2”x6” 1⁄8” thick flat steel welded to the core support to run
your all thread through.
• No radiator or fan protectors allowed.
• Body bolts can be replaced with up to 1” bolts.
• K-frame cars are allowed to bolt the K-member to the frame solid with no spacer (no welding).
May have 1- 2x3x1/4” washer inside the frame and 1- 4x4x1/4” washer on top. Bolts must be up
inside the frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk all thread, this does not
have to be up inside the frame.
• If running a core support spacer, must be 2x2x1/4” tubing welded to either the frame or body
not both.
• Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added.
• Do not shorten the front of your car.
• Core support may not be relocated and must be bolted in factory location only.
• Hoods must have at least a 12” square hole in case of a fire. You are allowed 16-3⁄8” bolts with
a washer of 1.25” to bolt hood seems.
• You are allowed 6 spot to hold your hood on. Your core support all thread may go through the
hood and will count as 2 of the tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all thread, no longer than
8”. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only with a washer no bigger than
5x5x1/4”.
• Fenders may be bolted back together with no more than 6-3⁄8’’ bolts with a 1.25” diameter
washer. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the
front of the core support, do not exceed 4-3⁄8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt together.
• Do not alter the firewall in any way.
• For safety, all cars must have 2 bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall. The
straps cannot be any larger than 3⁄8”x3” flat strap. Do not connect these bars in any manner.
These bars way be welded/bolted to 3”x5” plates. Plates and bars must stay within 5” of the
windshield opening. Must be a minimum of 3” from any protectors and cage.
• You may weld your doors and trunk shut with no larger than 3”x1/8” flat strap (do not overlap).
Only exterior seams may be welded. If you choose to bolt or wire or doors shut, must be done in
a minimum of 6 locations.
• You may fold the tops of the doors over and weld the inner to outer (no added metal).
• You are allowed to skin the driver’s door with 3/16” thick sheet metal for safety reasons. It may
not extend further than 3” past the door seams.
• You can fold hoods or trunk lids over. Do not slide your hood or trunk lids forward or back,
trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids may be shaped but must remain 8” off the floor.
• 2-1” all thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame. You may pass through a factory body
mount hole or weld 3” to the side of the frame.
• May use up to a 5”x5”x1/4” floating washer on top of the trunk lid.
• Do not remove the speaker deck.
• Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. If you choose not to run a rear
bumper on a wagon, you may drop the tailgate straight down welded to the body only.

Body shaping
Body shaping is allowed to the exterior of the vehicle only. All panels must remain in factory
position.

Rust repair
You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2”
beyond rust.

#9 Wire rules
You are allowed 2 strands up to 4 loops per window opening. May go around frame and through
the roof sheet metal only. Do not use your cage in any way to support this.
You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of vehicle, behind rear end with
4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3⁄8” chain. This may go around the frame, or it may go through a
factory frame hole, or you can weld 1-3⁄8” chain link to the inside rail of the frame to run the
wire through. This wire pass through the trunk floor if you choose.

Radiators
For mounting radiators, you may use up to 4-1⁄2” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of
the core support. You may use 2”x6” 1⁄8” thick flat steel, welded to the core support to run your
all thread through. No radiator or fan protectors allowed.

Body Mounts
Body mounts can be replaced with up to 1” bolts. Must have a 1” spacer in all mounts besides at
the core support. K-frame cars are allowed to bolt the frame solid with no spacer (no welding).
May have 1- 2x3x1/4” washer inside the frame and 1 4x4x1/4” washer on top. Bolts must be up
inside the frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk all thread, this does not
have to be up inside the frame.
Radiator support mount spacers may be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down
solid. If running a core support spacer, must be 2x2x1/4” tubing welded to either the frame or
body not both. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not shorten the front of
your car and move back past the body mount hole, as your vehicle will not run, The all thread at
the core support may be welded to the side of the frame.

Hoods and Front Clips
Hoods must have at least a 12” square hole in case of a fire. You are allowed 16-3⁄8” bolts with a
washer of 1.25” to bolt hood seems. You are allowed 6 spot to hold your hood on. Your core
support all thread may go through the hood and will count as 2 of the tie down spots. You may
have up to 1” all thread, no longer than 8”. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet
metal only with a washer no bigger than 5x5x1/4”.
Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the
fenders in the same location that it came factory (no welding).
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 6-3⁄8’’
bolts or less with a 1.25” diameter washer. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you
wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support, do not exceed 4-3⁄8” bolts with
1.25” washers to bolt together.

Windshield bars and Firewall
Firewall – do not alter the firewall in any way.
Window bars – For safety, all cars must have 2 bars extending from the roof of the car to the
firewall. The straps cannot be any larger than 3⁄8”x3” flat strap. Do not connect these bars in any
manner, no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6” strap material
allowed on the firewall. Must be a minimum of 3” from any engine protectors and cage. No rear
window bars, may use #9 wire in the openings

Doors
You may weld your doors shut with nothing larger than 3×1/8” flat strap (do not overlap).
Exterior door seam only may be welded. You may fold the tops of the doors over and weld the
inner to outer with no added metal. If you choose to bolt or wire or doors shut, must be done in a
minimum of 6 locations. If we do not think the vehicle is safe you will not run.
You are allowed to skin the drivers door for safety reasons. May be up to 3/16” flat steel, it may
not extend further than 3” past the door seams.

Cage
All cage material must be no larger than 8” OD, unless specified for a specific rule. It must also
be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except where the down tubes go straight down. No
cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine and protector. Must be
a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered.
You may weld a bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can be an X. Do not connect
directly to the frame, and you may also have (with no extensions), across your dash area to
replaces your dash. You may run up to a 60” bar connecting the dash bar and the seat bar inside
the front doors only. You may weld two down bars per side from the cage to the frame vertically.
Do not angle these or conceal a body mount with them. These down bars must remain behind the
inside door seam and may only be welded to the top side of the frame or floor. These bars cannot
exceed 2”x3”. You must have roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or
frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the
steering cage. Back of cage, including roll bar has to be placed a minimum of 5” in front of the
center of the rear seat body mount. On cars where this isn’t present, must be 10” from driver’s
seat. Trucks must stay within the cab.

Gas tank protector – You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than
to your cage. Cannot exceed 24” wide and must be centered in the vehicle. It can angle in from
your rollover protection, it must be 4” off floor and roof sheet metal and 1” from rear sheet
metal. Must stay on interior of car.
Fuel tank, oil coolers, transmission coolers, batteries, pedals, and shifters Original gas tanks must
be removed.
You must use a boat tank or a well-made fuel cell and it must be mounted to your cage. Only
metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from
exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the vehicle.
Engine oil coolers and transmission coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to
reinforce the car. All bolts mounting these may only go through sheet metal, unless mounting on
a cage.
Floor mounted pedals are permitted. They must be 2” away from the frame, body mounts, and
any cage components or protectors.
Batteries may be mounted to the cage or in the floorboard, if mounting in the floorboard, the
battery box may not strengthen the vehicle in any way. Must be a minimum 2” from cage, frame,
body mounts, and protectors.
Cable shifters are permitted but may not be mounted in any way to strengthen the vehicle.

Trunks/Tailgates
You are allowed to weld your trunk solid with up to 3×1/8” flat strap on the exterior seam only.
No attachment point may come intact with the frame.
You can fold hoods or trunk lids over. Do not slide your hood or trunk lids forward or back,
trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids may be shaped but must remain 10” off the floor. Rear
quarter panels must remain vertical. Rear tail light valance must remain vertical.
2-1” all thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame. You may pass through a factory body
mount hole or weld 3” to the side of the frame. May use up to a 5×5 washer on top of the trunk
lid.
Do not remove the speaker deck.
Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules must be followed. If
you choose not to run a rear bumper on a wagon or truck, you may drop the tailgate straight
down. May only be welded to the body.

If it is not on these rules don’t do it or you will not run

For More Information 636-448-9111